New (aftermarket remake) outer door window rubber is less than 1/2 of the cost of an original (Porsche 170 euro each).

Hello shark-drivers

I'll try to explain, how to install a new and weather-stripping part on the door of your 928. This will eliminate the gap between the side-window, and the aluminum outside, and finally it will stop protect the windows from scratches....!!

First take off all the door paneling including the thin plastic foil and the rubber part inside the door.
The window is held in place by two felt guides, loosen these bolts, press the guides down and pull them out.
Following that, you can work through a hole in the front and towards the rubber part outside, move it up a little and be careful taking it out and off the door.

After that you can try to install the new weather-stripping part, but if you do not have enough room between the outside door and the window to install the fixture with a finger, I’ll recommend to take out the complete window.

Take a good look at the ends of the original weather-stripping and take the new in your hands.

First cut off a small part about 30 degrees (like in the picture shown below) and hold it in a way that the longest point is facing downward.
Then cut off below the approximate 45 degree point of the edge. Use picture 35 below as a reference.
It should look like the sharp edge of a chisel now.
Grind of a bit of this 45 degrees point, smoothen it a little, create a little opening, be aware of the end, it will point al little upwards later on (refer to the original weather-stripping).

After that make three cuts at the following distances: From the end 15, 30 and 45 mm. Finally one more cut a bit more than half way through, the big part in the middle is also done now. Be careful not to cut the upper section of the weather-stripping, make sure that you keep it out of the way with your hand.

Repeat the same procedure for the other side.

When you’re done cut through weather-stripping in the middle you will have two parts now one for the left and the other one for the right door.

This will give you the possibility to create one new end in case the first attempt is not good.
There is no loose section of the rubber part and the part is a little bit too long this will give you the option of a re-attempt (but be careful the amount of material is limited).

Do not use Teflon or Vaseline in an attempt for a smoother assembly. The weather-stripping will clip in the fasteners better without pre-treatment.

Check that the lower inside part of the weather-stripping (flap) is not “glued” together it might happen during the fabrication process. Separate the part carefully if necessary.

Begin as far as possible at the edge above the door lock pin, press the rubber part in. First the upper part, hold it and then with the help of the other hand press it in between the door lock and the window. From inside the door work the lower lip around the rail. Press the rubber a bit toward the edge and continue to install more of the material the same way as before. It should rest against the original material which comes in from above.

After this you have to fasten the other side, start at the front. Measure the length from the beginning and cut it long enough to be tension free later on. I recommend 2 mm extra material, this will compensate for any possible material shrinking in the future.

It might be necessary to cut out a little portion (reference photo 36) to make sure that everything works just fine. When I installed the second set in my second car, I noticed that this is not always necessary. Reminder: Press in the upper part (flap) in the split first and then the lower part (flap).

After that, you’ll have to fasten the upper part first and then the lower flap over the total length of the door.

This all can be done without taking the window out (you might try the installation with the help of a screwdriver).
For the lower part of the “V” inside the lower “flap”: Press down the rubber a bit and with another tool (or finger) work the lower fastening part of the “flap” around the rail.
Sometimes this is really difficult! Be very careful with pressure when using a screwdriver. The rubber might “resist” against installation and might not “settle in” properly.
If the upper “flap” can’t be fastened very well, you might help it by using a little bit of contact-glue in the split.

It’s a little time consuming, but the result is fine and justifies the work. Plus you’ll have the piece of mind that your window will remain scratch free for many years to come

Here are the pictures:



Hello all,

I finally got round to replacing the old, brittle window scrapers on my S4 over the weekend so I thought it might be useful to share some tips... The replacements are an aftermarket product I got from Theo Jenniskens in the Netherlands, and are supplied as a single length of seal so need to be cut to size carefully - measure twice, cut once and all that. I had about 4 inches spare so used that to practice shaping the rear section so it'd follow the curve.

Tip 1: I have a set of cheap plastic trim removal tools (£7 or so off amazon) and they saved my bacon - worth investing as the plastic won't scratch paint or tear rubber as easily as metal tools will.

Removal of the old seals was straightforward but left a lot of residue in the channels - I used the plastic tools to scrape that out, and cleaned the channels with some soapy water.

I found I had enough access without removing the door panels and inner seals - your mileage may vary! The only place the fit is tight is the middle part of the door where the glass is closest to the outer skin; I started placing the seal at the front of the door and "slid" it rearwards along the channel as I worked.

Tip 2: lots of soapy water! Apply it liberally to the non-felted side of the seal, and to the channel to which it locates. That (and cleaning the bits of old seal out) made it easy to slide the seal along the channel as I worked.

Tip 3: tape your fingers! If you choose not to remove the door panel (what can I say? I'm lazy like that) and have sausage fingers like mine, then be aware that you'll be rubbing the skin off the first join of your middle and index fingers. I've "learned by doing", but there's a reason that the guy in the YouTube fitting video has tape on his fingers...

Anyway - the whole thing took maybe an hour to complete, no damage to door or seal, the fit is excellent and the Windows no longer judder and scrape as I open them. One of the easier (albeit more daunting) cosmetic jobs I've done on the car.




a new version of the remake seal has a stiffer fit and looks perfect. The curve the seals needs to make can be made by inserting a special shaped piece into the seal. This requires cutting the seal a little different as showed in the pictures below:


regards, Theo