There MUST BE a difference by and large from the 83 and older vs the 83 and newer owners manuals.
Emergency starting procedures from my 82 as well as my son's 81 state -this is
for JUMPING-:
Bottom line on charging off of another vehicle I'd disconnect the negative lead
on the dead battery,
both if you are inclined. Connect the cables for 5 or ten minutes to put a low
charge (warm-up) on the dead battery. Then disconnect the cables, hook up the
cables on the 'dead' battery, start the engine on the feed car and hook the
jumper cables back up. Then start the dead sHARk.
This will help in several areas of concern:
There should be less chance of a spike.
Hopefully, while trying this method you won't 'kill' the battery in the donor
car, resulting in two dead cars....
Personally, I'd just jump at the front post and go for a long drive...different
strokes for different folks.
As for charging, disconnect the ground and feed cables and trickle charge over
night or longer.
John Struthers
===
John, with all due respect, given the source of that first set of steps.... IMHO
it's dangerous to take that approach. The instructions should be amended... at
least mentally... to stress that one should never handle jumper leads while
either car is running, as an accidental short will blow anywhere from 1 to 3
diodes on the alternator of the car that's running! The safest procedure is:
1) Make sure car with good battery is "Off"
2) Connect jumper cables
3) Start car with "good" battery and let it charge the dead battery.
4) Turn off car when you think you've charged long enough.
5) Now attempt to start car with dead battery
Running a car while jumping another car, while that second car is being cranked,
is another way to stress an old diode past its breaking point.
I know we've all broken these rules before... but they are a reasonable and safe
starting point.
__________________
Dave A.
====
Dave,
I agree on some points but we end up back at a chance of a bigger spike if we
crank the feed engine AFTER cable hook-up. And if you are using a running feed
car to charge the disconnected dead battery you are in effect 'HOT CHARGING'
with possible heat/cell damage to the dead battery.
I do wonder if we can trust the Porsche owners manual information when it comes
to electrics...after all if the same team who overdesigned the electrical system
-cause of much grief- also made inputs to the owners manual IMO the manual would
be slightly suspect.
====
"6. Run the engine of the vehicle supplying the current.
7. Connect the auxiliary battery leads in the following order:
First fix one end of the positive (+) lead to the (+) clamp on the right at
front of the engine compartment (arrowed) -arrow points to the + jumper pole in
the picture-. Then connect the other end of the lead to the (+) terminal of the
feed battery.
Now clamp one end of the (-) lead to the (-) terminal of the feed battery, then
attach the other end to the cylinder block or the transverse strut in the engine
compartment.
Care must be taken that the cables do not make contact with each other and that
the positive cable does not come in contact with other electrical terminals -danger
of short circuit!
9. When the engine is running disconnect the cables in the reverse order."
- John Struthers -
#6. is problematic
Running the source car's engine runs the risk of shorting the running car's
alternator, whether jumping or attempting a "quick" charge of the dead battery.
#7. is "don't care"
It doesn't matter electrically which lead is connected first. It just prevents
"sparks" while hooking-up the positive lead, i.e. positive lead may touch a
ground point.
#9. is problematic
Leave the jumper battery connected a short while to allow the
dead battery car's alternator to "see" a load battery versus
a potential "spike" in alt. voltage because the dead battery
still doesn't have enough charge, i.e. the alt. must "see" a battery
load when the jumper cables are removed.
__________________
Have Fun
Loren
====
Loren,
On #6,
True, and I indicated in the following IMO section "less chance of frying the
diode" because there would be additional amps and voltage in the 'dead battery'
after doing a " slow charge " from a source battery with a non-running engine.
Which would mean less of a load/demand across the source battery and alternator
when you eventually jump start as well as less of a spike -hopefully, thru the
dead cars electrical systems. #6 & #9 are related, the difference being a
straight forward Jump, or, a 'slow charge' off of the source battery prior to
jumping. Either way the source alt doesn't sense/see just a plain draw and
supply more current than needed. Nor does a battery, or any electrical system
demand more current than it 'needs' unless it is battery initiated, with low
battery condition which has to supply current to a high-load,
draw item like a starter and a low charge receiving battery at the same time.
I would, in retrospect, let the donor car re-charge its own battery for a few
minutes before 'jumping' after a 'slow charge to the 'dead battery' as to do
otherwise would place the load/draw of a low charge receiving battery, a high
draw starter and the semi-depleted donor battery across the tender diodes of the
donor alternator.
On #7,
Well....
There can and generally will, be sparks/arcing on either (+) or, (-) cable lead
hook-up.
Point of fact, -a demo- if you disconnect the (-) battery ground strap and
trickle charge your battery (you should) and then after charging and after dark
hook
the ground strap back-up you will see sparks.
Keep in mind that touching any metal object while trying to hook-up an energized
(+) cable lead results in a short/arc/grounding which may or may not affect the
electrics in the dead car and certainly will result in a surge across
the charging/jumping cars alternator. A much bigger concern than a ground lead
touching an unwanted ground point. So while you agree here that the (+)
lead touching a ground point and arcing/sparking is a concern you are saying
that it's a "don't care" concern...?
In any case, there will be less demand on the donor alt. when jump starting if
you put more more voltage and amps in the receiving battery before jumping. This
would also have the benefit of ' reducing the spike/surge ' both to the dead car
and across the charging system of the donor car.