18x18,5x5cm measured inside the car (GTS booster), connectors not counted in. Those need 1 a 1,5 cm extra room.
Randomly bumping an old thread, as I've
been watching/looking for an answer to this question for over a year now.
Finally, a useful-ish amplifier has been released which fits comfortably in the stock location. Its in the 2012 amp range for Soundstream.
Picasso Nano PN4.320D
The original booster is like:
2.125" (5,40cm) Height x 7.25" (15,90cm) Length x 6.5" (16,51cm) Width
Size of the PN4.320D is:
1.5" (3,81cm) Height x 7" (17,78cm) Length x 4.75" (12,06cm) Width - which makes is a fair bit smaller than the stock factory amp:
Originally Posted by Rob Edwards View Post
Factory amp dimensions:
This new amp is 4-channel (Class D), and will drive 2ohm speakers like the original 6" woofers in the 10-speaker setup.
Once my '89's interior is ready to put back together, I'm getting one of these. They apparently run cool too which is important for that small space by the passenger seat.
It can be bridged, so it offers flexibility for driving rear woofers/mids, or woofers/sub (and run the mids off the headunit's rear speaker output). I plan on driving the door speakers off the head unit regardless. (note - if you want to run the woofers off this amp, its worth making a simple low-pass filter.. the stock Blaupunkt amp contained one at around 1500khz).
I'm not going for audiophile quality - I just want to get all 10 of the stock speakers working properly and sounding reasonable; the PO of my '89 ditched the stock amp and badly wired up the speakers. Sure I could have done this before now with a big ugly amp - but I don't want amplifiers mounted anywhere in sight, or anywhere that costs me storage space, and want to keep the spare wheel in the car too.
Booster internals (pics courtesy Francesco) It also shows replaced capacitors as they age and loose they capacity, which causes loss of amplification quality
Booster alternative from Focal:
4-Kanal Class-D Mini-Digital-Verstärker
Nur 19,9 x 10,8 x 4,3 cm klein!
Dank der volldigitalen Technik hat dieser Verstärker trotz minimaler Abmessungen richtig Leistung, klingt high-endig und sehr dynamisch!
Focal´s neueste Verstärkerserie für alle die Ihren Verstärker versteckt einbauen möchten aber trotzdem einen sehr gut klingenden Verstärker möchten.
Inclusive High-Low-Adaptern zum Anschluß an Werksradios oder Autoradios die keinen Cinchausgang haben.
Natürlich sind auch Cinchanschlüsse vorhanden zum Anschluß an Autoradios mit Cinchausgang.
- 4x58 Watt RMS an 4Ohm
- 4x100 Watt RMS an 2 Ohm
- 2x 200 Watt RMS gebrückt an 4 Ohm
- 2 Ohm stabil
- stufenlos einstellbarer Low-Pass-Filter von 40 bis 400Hz mit 12dB Flankensteilheit pro Kanalpaar
- stufenlos einstellbarer High-Pass-Filter von 40 bis 400Hz mit 12dB Flankensteilheit pro Kanalpaar
- Übertragungsbereich 10Hz bis 50kHz
- Rauschabstand größer 84dB
- Klirrfaktor kleiner 0,05%
- Eingangsempfindlichkeit des Cincheingangs stufenlos von 0,2Volt bis 5Volt regelbar
- Cincheingänge und High-Level-Eingänge
- Schutzschaltungen gegen Kurzschluß, zu niedriger Wiederstand, Gleichspannung, Überhitzung, Verpolung
- Absicherung: 1x30Ampere
- Abmessungen (LxBxH): 19,9 x 10,8 x 4,3cm
- Gewicht: 850 Gramm
I installed an Alpine KTP-445u (or
KTP-44SU) in the stock location. It fits nicely and sounds great for the front
(Polk) and rear seat speakers (MB Quart) (the far hatch speakers are
disconnected). A separate California 400w amp powers a Polk C-4 Isobaric Sub
that fits nicely in the hatch area behind the seats.
If you are still running with the original speakers, the cones are probably disintegrating by now and I doubt they will sound good.
'88 S-4 Auto Silver Metallic/Black
Hilton, can you tell me what you bought in the self powered sub?
I would like Hans' setup with the sub but I don't think you can risk not having a spare in Australia if you want to do some long road trips. Have an amp and a tube sub now but it takes up too much room.
Its the stock one from in the spare wheel of a Nissan Rogue in the USA - has a built-in Bose amplifier and can be wired up to take the on/off signal and subwoofer line-out from the head unit. I paid about $US70 for it including the pigtail (to make wiring easier), plus shipping.
I'll be installing it in my '87 - with the silver forged spare rim. It sits up a little high, so I'll probably make a 3mm MDF replacement for the spare-tire cover with a hole to accommodate the top of the sub enclosure. It'll be invisible under the carpet as the top of it sits flush with the foam padding on the right-side of the hatch under the carpet.
Being designed to fit in a spare, it has a hole through the middle, so I'll be tapping and bolting it to the plate that holds the spare in place, so it won't fly in an accident.
My '87 has just the basic 4-speaker setup behind perforated panels - the speakers in it are tiny so I need something to add bass, and this woofer seems like an ok solution.
Although it's still a chip amp (IC's
instead of discrete output devices - and much higher distortion to go along with
that design choice), they used some pretty good parts in it: Wima film caps and
Matsushita electrolytics; pretty good boards and inductive filtering too.
The one thing I found surprising (or maybe not so much) is that there are different devices used for the rear two channels. The door and cargo channels use one LM2005 each (bridged, as used in this amp, will drive 20W into 4Ohms). The woofer drivers, though, are TA7250's. They aren't much more powerful into 4Ohms (23W), but, unlike the LM2005's, these are rated to drive 2Ohm loads (30W). So, a bit of indirect evidence about 2Ohm woofers in the B-pillars.