Please check your speed sensor or crank sensor. We did a complete intake job last July and never did replace this sensor. Well the car ran awesome and a few days ago the idle went from 750rpm to around 500rpm at idle during a stop and stalled. I called Roger and 928intl-this part does not go bad often, but check it.

Well I bought one and I needed to install quick. I started to unscrew the old one. It looked good all around until I took it out. Everything from the connector to the boot of the old sensor fell apart. I say: looks can be deceiving. I installed a new one today. The car ran like it supposed to and pulls hard.

Please check this sensor if your car had replaced everything, but thought this part could not cause your car to stalled or idle a little rough, and it can cause a fluctuation in rpm. This is one of the many problem in our aging beast.

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The crank sensor is a good thing to replace when you get easy access such as when doing an intake/fuel hose replacement. The nightmare scenario is if the connector body of the crank sensor breaks, when you're twisting off the sensor. I suggest applying penetrating oil and letting the car set overnight before removing the sensor. There are good reasons for making a clean sweep and refurbishing/replacing all likely suspects when doing an intake job: The more you find yourself removing harness connectors in the future, the closer you are to a harness job. Finish and button up the top end job all at once.

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I have had two cars reported to me in the last couple of months that ran fine when the engine was cold/cool but cut out when the engine was hot.

One car would cut out if the engine was worked hard and then wouldn't restart for 5 minutes or more.

The other car could be left idling and shortly after it came up the normal temperature it would cut out, and wouldn't start until it was left to cool off.

In both cases the flywheel speed sensor was the cause of the problem.
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John '86 Euro S2

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I stand corrected

I wouldn't think a car would run or start if the crank sensor was faulty. Good to know
Good post. Check your crank position sensors

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Please check your speed sensor or crank sensor. We did a complete intake job last July and never did replace this sensor. Well the car ran awesome and a few days ago the idle went from 750rpm to around 500rpm at idle during a stop and stalled. I was dumb founded, shee i should have stick with a new car again thinking. I called Roger and 928intl-this part does not go bad often, but check -well i bought one and i needed to install quick. I started to unscrew the old one it looks good all around until i took it out everything from the connector to the boot of the old sensor fell apart. I say look can be deceiving, and i installed a new one today. The car ran like it supposed to and pulls hard. Please check this sensor if your car had replaced everything, but thought this part could not cause your car to stalled or idle a little rough, and it can cause a fluctuation in rpm. This is one of the many problem in our aging beast
RedShark
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I disagree and think the the crank sensor is NOT a very common problem area.

Knock sensors are another story

actually you said unscrewed the sensor, maybe your talking about the knock sensor? If a crank sensor doesn't work i would think the car wouldn't run at all? Knock sensors are notorious for crumbling up, crank sensors.... uh not so much. Was it one of the knock sensors, there is a small allen screw holding the crank sensor in, but once the screw is out its often times a PITA to remove the sensor because of the o-ring in it. You didn't mention any swear words so maybe you have your parts mixed up?
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Ryan Perella
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I have had two cars reported to me in the last couple of months that ran fine when the engine was cold/cool but cut out when the engine was hot.

One car would cut out if the engine was worked hard and then wouldn't restart for 5 minutes or more.

The other car could be left idling and shortly after it came up the normal temperature it would cut out, and wouldn't start until it was left to cool off.

In both cases the flywheel speed sensor was the cause of the problem.
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John
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I just replaced my crank sensor when I did my intake R&R/fuel line replacement job. The connector to the harness crumbled and broke (see pic). New part not cheap$$$. I'll rebuild and sell cheap the old one if anyone wants it. It worked fine prior to pulling out, and except for the connector, looked ok.


ED
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This was a problem on my car ! It took months to figure out that this was my problem and the connector just fell apart when I touched it !

So I agree
backnblack
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Hello Ryan,the pictures above in this post is what mine looks like. I removed with a 5mm hex-and I kept dropping that damn bolt-the harness was in the metal holder and it looks fine upon removing it everything fell to gazillion pieces. The hardest part was trying to maneuver it back to its position, because the plastic wheel was in the way and i was afraid the damn thing is going to fall apart too or misalign. Why dint they make that wheel with cable in aluminum or metal? pictures is worth a thousand words in this thread. I had 2 knock sensors replaced last July as well all the other except this one. I will use self fusing silicone taped next week on other harnesses.
RedShark
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The CPS failed in my Mondial, and it was so intermittent it took more than a year to isolate it. Here's a test method:

Drive the car until fully warm. shut down, remove air cleaner assembly. Start engine, and use a hair dryer on high to blow hot air over the sensor for more than 5 minutes. Note any changes in idle, and rev it a few times. It should not change idle speed, and should rev easily. They are affected by heat and it takes a bit of time for the heat from the dryer to penetrate the sensor.

Use penetrating oil before trying to get it out. Work when the engine is warm, and work the unit side to side while pulling STRAIGHT up on it. It's common to pull forward, away from the firewall, and this will not work.

Try to clean the bore with a rag around a screwdriver and some B-12. Insert the new one with a very light coat of anti-seize.

Knock sensor won't affect operation of the car unless you get poor fuel, the car is hot, and you step on it fairly hard. You can disconnect it completely and still drive, but not recommended.
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Doc

more stuff to read: Bosch Reference Sensor.pdf

Here's what how the special pattern is created which is used to have the TDC reference mark and the speed signal combined on one sensor (S4 and later I think)

There are 60 tooth positions, two of them are deleted so 58 pulses are to be seen by the sensor.

Sie bieten hier auf einen unbenutzten Bosch Drehzahlsensor / Kurbelwellensensor / Impulsgeber für die Kurbelwelle mit der Artikelnummer 0 261 210 003.

Der Sensor ist passend für folgende Fahrzeuge:


HSN TSN Hersteller ** Baureihe ** Modell ** ccm ** KW ** PS ** Baujahre **
0583 401 Porsche 924 2.5 S 2479 110 150 1985 – 1987
0583 414 Porsche 924 2.5 S 2479 118 160 1987 – 1988
0583 402 Porsche 928 4.9 S 4957 212 288 1985 – 1994
0583 394 Porsche 928 4.6 S 4664 228 310 1983 – 1986
0583 404 Porsche 928 4.9 S,S4 4957 235 320 1986 – 1991
0583 421 Porsche 928 5.0 S4 KAT 4957 235 320 1986 – 1991
0583 422 Porsche 928 5.0 GT 4957 243 330 1989 – 199
0583 432 Porsche 928 5.4 GTS 5397 257 350 1991 – 1995
0583 396 Porsche 944 2.5 2479 110 150 1985 – 1987
0583 416 Porsche 944 2.5 2479 118 160 1987 – 1990
0583 390 Porsche 944 2.5 2479 120 163 1981 – 1987
0583 391 Porsche 944 2.5 2479 120 163 1981 – 1987
0583 417 Porsche 944 2.7 2681 121 165 1988 – 1989
0583 403 Porsche 944 2.5 S 2479 140 190 1986 – 1988
0583 419 Porsche 944 3.0 S2 2990 155 211 1988 – 1991
0583 400 Porsche 944 2.5 Turbo 2479 162 220 1985 – 1988
0583 412 Porsche 944 2.5 Turbo 2479 184 250 1987 – 1991
0583 420 Porsche 944 Cabriolet 3.0 S2 2990 155 211 1988 – 1991
0583 427 Porsche 944, 944 Cabriolet 2.5 Turbo 2479 184 250 1987 – 1991
0583 413 Porsche 959 2.8 2850 330 449 1986 – 1991
0583 428 Porsche 968 3.0 2990 176 239 1991 – 1995
0583 429 Porsche 968 Cabrio 3.0 2990 176 239 1991 – 1995

9101 417 Volvo 740 Kombi [745] 2.3 Turbo 2316 134 182 1985 – 1988
9101 378 Volvo 760 [704,764] 2.3 Turbo (704) 2315 127 173 1982 – 1984
9101 385 Volvo 760 [704,764] 2.3 Turbo (704) 2316 134 182 1984 – 1988
9101 398 Volvo 760 [704,764] 2.3 Turbo (704) 2316 134 182 1984 – 1988