I am in the process of replacing the front seal. The engine is torn down and
I am ready to remove the old seal. I can see a grove in the front of the casting
that will allow me to drive a screw driver into the old seal and pry it out.
Before I go charging ahead like a barn yard mechanic are there any things I
should be aware of.
How about when installing the new seal? The replacement seal seems to me mostly made of metal, while the old seal is mostly rubber. What is the best way of installing the new seal. At $21 dollars for the new seal, all the work in the tear down and the risk of damaging a block I do not want to do too much experimenting.
Generally, when installing a new seal I use a socket the size of the seal.
With the crank in the way, it is not going to be possible to find a socket that is deep enough and big enough to accommodate the seal. The next choice is to find a piece of pipe big enough go around the end of the crank and maybe use a spare spacer on the seal surface.
Dan the Pod Guy
Thanks all for the help on the front seal.
It actually turned out to be a very easy job. There is a slot cast into the block. I used screw driver, drove it in the side of the seal using the casting slot and the seal just popped out.
I suspect the problem was caused by the seal shrinking as it came out easily. The factory seal was made out of rubber or plastic. There was very little flexibility left.
The replacement seal from 928 International is mostly made of metal. It went in find. I used a 2" PVC coupler and a hammer to drive it in evenly and seat it with the block. Probably the easiest thing I have done on the car for a while.
Dan the Pod Guy
For PORSCHE 928 4.5 S GT GTS front side, PN 99911326340, fits 928 MY 1977-1995.
OD [mm]: 85,00
ID [mm]: 60,00
Width [mm]: 10,00
ELRING - 557846 / 557846
MAHLE - 67854 / 67854
PORSCHE - 999 113 263 40 / 99911326340
VICTOR REINZ - 80-21108-20 / 802110820
VICTOR REINZ - 81-21108-20 / 812110820
** Corteco also sells a seal with same dimensions. But the rubber coating at the outer diameter is partly done. This seal is known to leak, use a Victor Reinz seal !!!
If the rear seal is not flush with the block it will fail after a while. My car
had a small like when I bought it in 2003. I replaced the seal when I did the
torque converter bearings and the TT in 2005. The reason for the leak was an
improper installation by the factory! The seal was not flush with the block and
wore on one spot a lot quicker. Installed a new seal and the motor is still bone
dry, just like a new car.
link: REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT WITH THE TRANSMISSION LEFT IN PLACE.pdf