Bleeding the clutch has turned into a new exercise program. I loosen the
starter, dismount the plate holding the flex hose to the bottom of the pan and
remove the CSC. Then I bolt the CSC to the bottom hole in the cover plate
through the top hole of the CSC. Now, I'm in a position to do reps pushing the
CSC rod in to the stop and letting it out 'slowly'.
Yesterday I did at least 20 reps with the little air release valve open, then frantically closing it before I let the rod out 'slowly'. Pissed away a lot of new
racing blue brake fluid. Got a nice strong stream. Then I followed Mark Anderson's suggestion to push the rod in with the valve closed to force air back up the line. Did 30 reps holding the rod in for 10 counts and then releasing 'slowly'.
The other day I pumped up the pressure bleeder to 10 lbs and opened the air release valve hoping to force the air out.
Last evening I buttoned everything up, crawled out from underneath and hoped into the driver's seat, victory cigar in hand. Start engine (nice sound) depress clutch (hopefully) and move the shifter towards 2nd gear (still much mashing of gears).
Today my arms hurt like hell and at my age I can't do reps daily.
I removed the brake booster during the rebuild, installed 2 new brake pressure sensors, replaced brake fluid and bled brakes.
Anybody, any ideas. Can the Mity Vac be helpful?
'82 5 spd
There are at least three methods for adjusting the dual-disk clutch. The
easiest one is to crank the adjusters all the way back. It's just that
simple. I couldn't make the even spacing approaches work and did that out of
frustration. Worked! Others report the same method works for them.
Symptoms appear to indicate clutch adjustment. If the intermediate plate is
too far forward the front disk will never completely disengage no matter how
much clutch travel. The quick fix as below (and as recommended by Porsche when
replacing the clutch) is to adjust the intermed plate as far back as poss. You
will need to take the cover off, and disengage the clutch. I use the jack with a
spare pushrod and a piece of wood spacer between jack and sump to keep it clear
of the ring gear.
There are 3 adjustment points so you will need to crank the flywheel round....I use a large screwdriver in to lever the flywheel round using the ring gear. Once it's all back in place, operating the clutch a few times will then self adjust it and should work OK.
My method as well. Apparently the thing self adjusts in one direction.
Or at least that is what I have found. The early manuals say to pull the little "T" shaped bits back until there is a 1mm clearance under them.
But I have found that that is about all you can get out of them. So I have always just made sure that I pull them back fully. The first time you step on the pedal they go wherever they go and that has always made my clutch work fine. I think this is one of those things where someone has a bad pilot shaft or improperly bled system and for some reason it has always been blamed on the adjustment of the clutch itself. I have never seen anything anywhere in the manuals about adjusting the clutch using the "aftermarket" method. But there are people that are fanatical in their beliefs. If anyone has ever felt the strength of the little leaf springs in there they would realize that there isn't that much centering force anyway. It is more of a slight unload than an active centering mechanism. I wish they were a little stronger actually because I have heard of them snapping and it is definitely the weaker part of the design of the clutch.
BTW, what's the third method of which you speak?
The third approach is the "DEVEK Method." It's a variation on the WSM approach.
Here's the text swiped from their site:
Adjusting the 928 double disc clutch center ring: The 928 double disc clutch is superior to any other production car clutch assembly. It is small in diameter, has a large surface area, low angular momentum and is easy to modulate. However, it does have one fault. Porsche discontinued the clutch at the end of 1986 because of continuing problems with having the clutch properly serviced in the field. If the center ring is out of position, the clutch, even in the fully disengaged position, will experience "drag". This drag will cause a creep when the car is standing still, in gear and idling. The clutch drag will also cause difficult shifting and grinding in reverse gear. The other aspect of the service problem is that improper lubrication of the clutch assembly and central shaft causes poor quality engagement and early failure of parts. The Fix: To properly adjust the center ring, remove the clutch cover and disengage the clutch by using a bar against the release bearing arm. In the disengaged position, the center ring should be equidistant from the flywheel and the pressure plate. If the center ring is out of position, reposition it by moving the adjusting forks of the center ring with a screwdriver. Rotate the engine by hand to gain access to each of the three adjusting forks. Disregard the dimensions given in the 928 factory repair manual! Lubricate all of the pivot points of the pressure plate diaphragm spring with dry molybdenum disulfide spray (such as Zep product #0073). Lubricate the central shaft and release bearing guide sleeve with moly paste. This procedure will assure easy modulation of, and long service life for, the double disc clutch assembly.