Rear shifter cup 928 424 005 00

I changed my shifter ball cup today, little booger causes a dead stick on the shift linkage Nothing in any gear! Luckily the final shift was pulling her into the garage. It had popped off 5 or 6 times on that last drive.

Kurt Gibble Click Here Guide hosted @ 928Int was a great resource on this fix.
Matt.
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Restore More Precise Shifting
Changing the ball cup on the shifter for more precise shifting

By Kurt Gibble

These are directions for replacing the shifter bushing that's located on the top of the torque tube just behind the bell housing (and engine). The directions are exact for an '87 S4 (s/n 0181). This is usually the culprit in fore/aft shifter sloppiness(see Panorama May '97), although Dave Cooley has noted that sometime the coupler just in front of the trans can also be the problem. The procedure isn't too difficult, but you can't be ham-fisted.

1. Go in passenger footwell, remove the lower fuse panel(2 10mm nuts) and disconnect the O2 sensor (thick gray wire with black plug). Push out the grommet and wires through the hole in the tunnel.

2. Pull up shifter leather boot -- pull up the front of the plastic frame and it'll snap out of the console. Pull up rubber boot. Look at the shifter and memorize. Remove the 2 clips and the shifter rod pins and remove the shifter, springs, bushings,washers, and figure eight piece.

3. Support car on jack stands -- no loss in having it high.

4. Optional step: Use a digital level to measure the position of the two shifting rod pins. You could also measure the shifter before taking it out. (This is so we're sure to get the bushing spaced properly.)

5. Remove Exhaust. Spray 13mm nuts to manifolds. Place support (jack) on cross pipe in front of rear muffler. Remove two 13mm bolts and nuts on rear muffler, one of same on each intermediate, 17mm center support hanger behind the cat. Remove the nuts on the exhaust manifolds. Lower rear a couple of inches,then remove the bolts from the manifolds, lower the front while feeding the O2 sensor through the heat shields. (If you're near 60K, you might want to change the O2 sensor while the exhaust is down.)

6. Remove the center and two front heat shields -- ten 8mm bolts total.On the center, I removed the exhaust hanger to get it down. Remove the front tunnel brace to which the heat shields mount (four 13mm bolts).

7. Pry the shifting guide rod cup off of the ballon top of the torque tube. I used a Stanley wrecking bar -- the gently curved end. Others have used screwdrivers and motorcycle tire irons.

8. Gently pull the shifting guide rod to the side and down -- mine went more easily to the driver's side. There's a bearing welded to the top of the torque tube (Jim Stadter) in which the guide tube rides, and you probably don't want to break or bend this -- just a guess on my part.

9. Measure the distance from the cup to the rod and mark the orientation. Loosen the 17mm locking nut on the cup threads. How, you ask? Well,you might try to put a 22mm wrench on the cup to counter-hold the torque you apply with the 17mm open-end wrench. If you do, you'll probably twist the cup right off the threads -- you can guess which you've been warned. I was able to grab the tube (back about three inches) with a "normal" pair of pliers and then squeeze those pliers with a channel lock to get enough grip. A channel lock won't go up in the tunnel, as the clearance is too small (the tube has to stay fairly high for this so that the narrow part of the pliers goes where the clearance is the smallest).Unscrew the cup while counting the threads.

10. Put a little grease on the inside of the new cup and clean off the ball. Thread on the new cup the correct numbers of turns, orient it properly, and then measure the distance from the cup the correct number of turns; orient it properly, and then measure the distance from the cup to the rod and adjust it if you forgot how to count. Snug the 17mm nut. Place cup on top (Don't press on it yet) of the ball. Go in the car and measure the angle of the pins/shifter, or at least make sure things look aligned.

11. Tighten 17mm lock nut -- it really doesn't have to be too tight. Even if it does work loose, the cup won't be able to unscrew, so i don't see a big problem looming (YMMV). Push the cup onto the ball (my guess is the plastic will give more easily on a warm day). I used the other end (right-angle end) of my Stanley wrecking bar by pivoting it against a small piece of metal (aluminum, of course) on the top of the tunnel. Worked really nicely.

12. Reassemble shifter. The trick inputting this in is finding some way to compress the springs so you can get the clicks on. The springs fit tightly onto the shift level so there's not a lot of room. I compressed the springs in a vise and then wrapped four turns of No. 26 bare copper wire around the spring in two places.Then install and cut the copper wire. Nylon thread may work (even dental floss) and, as some of the copper remained,the nylon may be better here.

13. Replace cross member, heat shields, and exhaust, remembering to feed the O2 sensor wires (and install the grommet) before the heat shields are tightened, and especially before the exhaust is entirely up.
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Heel af en toe, bij het echt even stevig doortrappen van mij 928 blijft de versnellingspook letterlijk vastzitten waardoor ik niet verder kan schakelen. De enige oplossing is dan te stoppen, en na wat heen en weer gepor is ie weer los. De bak maakt geen lawaai en schakeld verder prima maar af en toe blijft ie hangen. Kan het zo zijn dat er te weinig olie in de bak zit, kan ik dat ergens controleren. Kan er iets anders aan de hand zijn, ik heb echt geen idee. Ik heb weleens gehoord dat er ergens een teflon blokje zit wat vernieuwd moet worden. Graag jullie reactie.
Hans
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Het kan inderdaad de teflon cup zijn die versleten is. Ik heb de mijne vorig jaar vervangen. De cup was helemaal verteerd, waardoor het balgewricht er uit “popte”.

Op http://www.nichols.nu/tip413.htm en http://www.nichols.nu/tip553.htm  kun je er meer over lezen.

De check is redelijk simpel. Je auto moet alleen wel op de brug. Verwijder de kunststof en metalen bodemplaat. Schroef de warmtewerende plaatt los en verschuif hem, zodat je dmv. een zaklamp zicht hebt op de aandrijfashoes. Ter hoogte van het schakelmechanisme zie je de duwstang, welke op een bal is geklikt dmv. een cup. Hier duwt de schakelpook zich tegen af, zodat hij de schakelstang welke naar de bak loopt in en uit de bak kan drukken. Op de cup mag geen speling op zitten. In reparatieprocedure in de bovenstaande link staat dat je het uitlaatsysteem moet laten zakken. Dit heb ik niet gedaan omdat ik de eerste bout van de uitlaat al niet loskreeg en al een doemscenario voor me zag van afgedraaide bouten en zo. Met flink wat buigen van het hitteschild kun je deze net ver genoeg wegtrekken om er bij te kunnen. Hoewel dit niet gemakkijk gaat is het te doen. Dit geeft je net iets ruimte om met je handen bij de cup te komen. Wees wel voorzichtig, want de kabels van de sensor op de katalysator lopen door het hitteschild. Wees ook voorzichtig met de sensor zelf, want dit heeft een fragiel porseleinen (of iets dergelijks) huis. Het is even flink pielen, maar scheelt je wel het werk van de gehele uitlaat eronderuit halen. Mocht je hier toch voor kiezen, houd er dan rekening mee dat het uitlaatsysteem heeeeel erg zwaar is. Dus ondersteun deze en zorg dat het hele gewicht niet aan 1 bout komt te hangen. Dat geeft geheid problemen. Met flink wat gepriegel kun je de cup eraf draaien. Dmv een tang of schroevendraaier. Aan de cup zit een tapeind en een borgmoer. Markeer voor de zekerheid dmv een dikke stift de positie van de borgmoer. Zo kun je deze overnemen op de nieuwe en hoef je de bak niet opnieuw af te stellen.
Het scheelt enorm als je iemand in de auto hebt zitten die (even de schakelafdekhoes e.d. verwijderen) de schakelpook in positie houd. Ik heb zelfs de rivetringen in het schakelmechanisme op de pook verwijderd, en de stangen losgegooid zodat je meer ruimte krijgt beneden om met je handen erbij te kunnen. In de reparatieprocedure staat omschreven dat je dmv. een lijmtang de nieuwe cup op de bal kan drukken. Als je ervoor kiest om niet alles los te halen gaat dat niet. Ik heb eerst geprobeerd om dmv. een spanband deze er op te laten poppen, maar dat ging niet. Uiteindelijk dmv. een koevoet ging het . Het “S”-gedeelte van de koevoet gaf de mogelijkheid om boven de cup te komen en hem er zo op te klikken. Wel even een beschermplankje ertussen doen, want je moet echt flink kracht zetten. Eerst even wat vet in de cup smeren. Dit vergemakkelijkt de procedure en is uiteraard nodig voor soepel schakelen.
De hele klus heeft mij (met 2 man en een autobrug) een uurtje of 3 gekost. Maar het is de moeite waard. Niet alleen was het probleem opgelost, maar hij schakelde gelijk weer zo solide als een nieuwe auto. Ik ben nog wel even een tijdje bezig geweest om het schakelmechanisme bij de pook in elkaar te zetten. Ook hier waren echt 4 handen nodig. Wat flinke grote schroevendraaiers en een hamersteel houden het mechanisme in de veren gedrukt, terwijl je de rivetringen dmv een tangetje en een schroevendraaier weer op z’n plek kan drukken. Succes!
Op http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=223437  van een ander forum staan wat tips hoe men mij heeft geholpen.
Andre

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Replacing the bushings in the shifter just got much easier.

Pull the shifter boot up, gently wiggling it to loose it from the shifter. Pull up rubber boot and inspect bushings on the shifter shafts were they sit. The bottom ones in mine were shot, why I was replacing them. Place shifter in 2nd gear. Get a pair of needle nose vise grips open up just to the where the shifter shafts through the shifter. Place in the middle of them on the shifter. The other side place on the upper shaft rod. squeeze gently to compress the springs in the shifter assembly. You may have to tighten up the vise grips a little. Depress only enough to release the tension on the c clips, remove them. Remove the washer and gently remove the vise grips. Remove the shifter. If your going to shorten it, now is the time. Replace the plastic bushings, lube well, replace on the shifter rod shafts, compress the vice grips again gently in the same place as before, replace the c clips... Put back on the rubber boot, shifter cover & ball..... SUGGESTION: My 85 has these tinny PITA clips. Go to the local hardware store and match up the c clips to the real clips that have the tang on them that you can put on with a pair of needle nose pliers...!!!!!!! Get the heavy duty ones, not the light ones. Much, Much Much easier. This is only a 2 beer job though.

Cordially,
wag928s@aol.com
 

Rear coupler:

Front coupler:

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To get to the front ball cup you need to remove the heat shields (I removed all of them all the way back except the one that kind of wraps around the exhaust hanger doughnut. I left that one in but loose. The linkage just runs along the top of the TT and you have to wrestle with everything between the TT and the tunnel for all of these jobs.

For the front cup: I think there's a *little* more room going in from the DS (US) and there is a flat on the shaft #3 (which is actually shown in the diagram). This will enable you to get a wrench on there to remove the nut and ball cup once you get it popped off of the ball. Popping it off the ball is a major PITA as Dave says. I took 3 or 4 attempts at it over two weeks before finally getting the damned thing off.

For the rear coupler: Make sure you have the right sized allen wrench the first time for that conical set screw and use compressed air or a pick or something to make sure the wrench is fully seated. It takes next to nothing to round that head out and then you're in for a long and, shall we say intimate, period of time getting to know that area of the car. For me it took a dremel, drill, propane torch and several layers of skin from my knuckles to 'persuade' that one off. The bolt on the front is a 13mm and easy to get out, but the conical screw is the fun part. (after you either message, spindle and generally mutilate the rubber sleeve off (13)). I ended up making my own conical screw with a 13mm head so I never have to do that again:

You should find lots of threads on here but basically once you get in there you'll see what you need to do, figuring out how to do it with your setup (lift, liftbars, jackstands, whatever) is going to be up to you.

And don't forget the release arm ball cup: That's the same kind of ball-and-socket assembly that is on the front ball cup and it does make a difference in your shifting. It's accessed from inside the engine bay by removing the air filter box completely (and probably the MAF). The ball is at the top of the bell housing and you'll see the arm sitting on it. When I did mine it was during a clutch R&R so I'm not sure what's required to do it with everything hooked up, but you'll be able to see if there's lots of play (in mine there was no evidence of the old bushing, the arm was just rattling around on there. I think if you disconnect the clutch slave at the bottom of the bell housing, you should have enough play to move it and do what you need to do but I'm not sure. Maybe Stan (Mrmerlin) will chime in. He's been a huge help for me on things like this.

If you're lucky like me, each one of these things will make a HUGE impact on the way it shifts and drives. My car was sloppy as hell when I got it and now it's nice and smooth: Snick-snick-snick.

Good luck and post your results!
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1985 grey
Mike Freye

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Note: If you are going to replace your motor mounts, do yourself a favor and replace the shifter linkage bushing first. I could have done this job with two inches to spare between the torque tube and torque tube tunnel. New motor mounts make pressing the socket with fresh bushing onto the ball nearly impossible.


I just replaced the ball and socket bushing on the front shifter linkage without removing the exhaust and without removing the socket cup from the linkage.

I did have to remove the heat shield above the exhaust, the one near the driver's side frame rail protecting the positive wire from the battery, and the small brace that they attach to. You can snake out the large heat shield with the exhaust in place. At least, I managed to.

You'll have to unhook the linkage from the shifter. From underneath the car, pull the linkage down the side of the torque tube towards the driver's side. I used a rachet strap to hold the linkage downward. The strap was wrapped around the exhaust and hooked to the passenger side sway bar bracket. I also had to use a wrench on the lock nut to keep the linkage from rotating.

Using two long straight blades, dig the old bushing out of the socket.

To put the new bushing in, you can press it in with your fingers enough for it to hold, at this point, I used a C clamp to press the bushing into the socket.

Now, you have to work the lip of the bushing into the socket which will rest inside a groove and provide a nice, tight fit. I used the same two straight blades.

I pushed part of the lip underneath with one straight blade, then pushed right next to the first straight blade with the second, and began to walk them around the socket until the whole thing was done. It is a slow process.

The hardest part was getting the ball back onto the socket. I don't believe people have been securing the lip into the socket, because I could not do it by hand using a rope looped over or a crow bar. I tried twisting a rope with a jack handle, and the rope broke. I tried jacking the engine hoping the torque tube would press the socket against the top of the tunnel. The car was lifted off the jack stands...

You'll need to put your shifter on the pin of the linkage in the car. You can use the bottom hole on the shifter. It's just temporary. Have a helper hold the shifter according to your instructions to keep the socket dead centered over the ball. I couldn't do it alone, because the socket would slip to the left or right off of the ball.

I eventually snaked a rachet strap over the top of the linkage. One hook was placed into the driver's side mount for the exhaust heat shield brace that stretches across the exhaust. The second hook went around the passenger side exhaust pipe and stretched back to the driver's side sway bar mount.

Long story short, I broke the racheting mechanism while using an adjustable wrench to rachet the strap. Luckily, the locking part of the rachet was still holding. This allowed me to insert a crowbar above the linkage that previously would not fit. I had to use a jack to put enough pressure onto the crow bar to press the linkage on. I imagine it took a half ton of pressure to pop the socket onto the ball.

I bought a huge bag of graphite powder off eBay a long time ago. I use a paste made of lithium grease and graphite powder for the clutch fork bushing and the linkage bushing. That is the black grease like substance in the bushing in the photo.

Rachet strap on passenger side sway bar mount.