I used Barrs many years ago in an old Plymouth that had a bad head gasket and leaking freeze plugs. When I got around to fixing it I was amazed to find that the stop leak was only in the leaking areas. It's been around forever and I've never heard anything bad about it.
J. Carter '80 EuroS
> Personally, I wouldn't put that junk in my motor ... there are lots of tiny passages that can also be plugged, and that wouldn't be good. I don't believe you have to remove the intake (at least not all of it) to remove the T-stat housing, but even if you do, it's a better alliterative than pouring (any kind of) "stop-leak" into your motor. There are (if my memory is correct. If not, I'm sure someone will speak up) 5 seals for the T-stat housing on an '85. 1 O-ring at each housing/cylinder head union (2 total), 1 where the housing presses into the block, 1 where the "ell" bolts to the front of the housing, and 1 internal at the back of the housing under the "ell" I'd replace all of them while you're at it, and I'd also inspect all the associated hoses and connections.
Chances are that if one is bad, some (or all of) the rest are near failure .... especially if they've never been changed. After 17 years, most (if not all) of the rubber/plastic in the engine bay is probably nearing failure. This (along with cleaning and re-tensioning electrical connections) is probably one of the most overlooked maintenance issue, and cause for many "problems" folks encounter with the 928. Yes, it's a bit of a PITA do go through these systems and replace all those hoses, lines, etc, but it's probably one of the smartest things you can do after your purchase. It's much easier to diagnose most of the common issues if you know that all cooling, vacuum, fuel hoses/lines (this includes brakes as well), and electrical connections are in working order. It's well worth the time, money, and effort. Just my opinion. All of the vendors sell "kits" for the
cooling system, vacuum lines, etc.
I used Stopleak in my original 84S, but it was a last ditch effort before yanking the engine to replace the head gaskets. However, it did work on a
major head gasket leak for a full race season. No issues day to day, but
when racing, the center trouth would fill up with coolant. after
stopleak, no leak. worked like a champ. no problems in the radiator
either. used it on the 292rear wheel hp part euro 5 liter with excellent cooling characteristics.
When we pulled the engine, there was no real residue throughout the engine. only in that leaking headgasket area.
sure, fix the problem if you can get to it, but if you cant, the barr's stopleak is a great bolt-on.
At 10:32 PM 11/4/02, J.Carter wrote:
>I used Barrs many years ago in an old Plymouth that had a bad head gasket and leaking freeze plugs. When I got around to fixing it I was amazed to find that the stop leak was only in the leaking areas. It's been around forever and I've never heard anything bad about it.
While I am not recommending its usage in a 928, the Factory Shop Manual for the Jaguar XJ-12 specifies the addition of one bottle of Barr's-Leak every time that the cooling system is filled.
The Factory Shop Manual for the Cadillac aluminum V-8 specifies the usage of a GM-branded stop-leak every time that the cooling system is filled. If the system still leaks, you add another. If it still leaks, you add a third. If it still leaks, you go to your dealer, who will replace the block.
Geez! too bad the Titanic didn't have that stuff handy!