Is there any instructions posted on the web for removing and adjusting the electric locks? If I try to lock the door from the passenger side, everything is fine. But if I try to lock the doors from the drivers side, they cycle. There is a clicking sound from the passenger side door mechanism when it reaches full lock. It doesn't seem to bother the system if I do it from the passenger side.
I see the linkage move the locking arms, and then the motor seems to move just a little more, hence the click. Is there something inside the motor casing that might be broken?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Here is a link to the door lock page on my Web Site.
Dan the Pod Guy
Glen, before removing the motor, you might try adjusting it's position
somewhat. I think I wrote up about this some on my webpage
(http://einstein.unh.edu/~msbriggs/mycar.html). It sounds like your
Passenger's side motor might be slightly out of position. When you lock
the driver's side door, it tells the passenger's side motor to lock. But,
if it's out of position somewhat (too far fore or aft), it might not make
it into the fully locked position. Therefore, it essentially tells the
driver's side door "hey, I'm unlocked" (well, at least that's how it
interpret the electrical signal), so the driver's side door unlocks.
The reason it works when you lock the passenger's side door with
the key is that you are forcing it into the fully locked position, and the
driver's side lock motor is able to fully lock that door.
Or at least that's my theory. :) When you remove the door panel (instructions on my page if you haven't done it), you'll see a couple bolts that hold the door lock motor in place. Loosening those will give you some leeway to slide it fore or aft.
86 5spd http://einstein.unh.edu/~msbriggs/locks.html
My central locking button on the center console is not working properly on my 84 928S. I push it and it ALMOST will lock the doors and unlock the doors. When I lock the driver side door then push the button, EVERY time it will lock the passenger side. I have replaced fuses and etc. but nothing has helped. Doesn't look like anything is wrong with the wires to the button on the back side either. Does anyone know of a fix for this problem? I don't want to start digging into the doors until I know I need to.
Thanks for the help,
The most likely cause of the problem is a physical obstruction to the locking motor in the driver's door. If you open one door and try to lock the car the locks will cycle to open again. This is the design. If when you push the locking bottom and the motor cannot lock the driver's door it will automatically cycle the system to open. But using the button to lock the drivers door you over come the obstruction and the passenger side cooperates.
To fix the problem you are probably going to have to remove the drivers door panel and clean up the lock. There is a possibility you will need a new locking motor for the drivers door. There is a copper ring around the top of the motor that does the syncing and it can burn out over time.
Here is a link to the rest of the story on door locks and Good luck.
Dan the Pod Guy
It's not an uncommon problem - I don't know the fix yet - I have a new painted door to transfer all the old door hardware to but moving to NZ etc has temporarily delayed that job. I think that the root cause of the problem is maladjusted and badly lubricated lock linkages. Mine started doing it after I Changed a lock barrel. The cause must be that the lock on the drivers side is unlocked but the linkage back to the motor is sufficiently out that the motor is set (just) at locked (and the lock and motor on the other side are both locked)
I think the drivers side governs so that given a jolt the drivers side motor locks again and causes it all to lock.
As regards getting in there was quite a long thread on the forum about this a while back. I seem to recall some approx 4" diameter plates in the floor behind the front seats that are just stuck in with that sealant stuff that you can "just" jack u out of the way. Go search the forum first though.
Jon In NZ
I had a similar problem. The doors started unlocking spontaneously and randomly after I had locked them. That turned out to be the alarm lock cylinder, which is located inside the normal lock cylinder. Replaced it, and problem was gone. Apparently not all that uncommon problem.
(Um, by "inside" I mean behind.)
The bad news is that both keys are locked inside. Twice in 2 days the car has locked itself.
Yup, they do that. At least the ones with electric locks. Locksmith routine sometimes works - there is an internal "shield" covering the lock to make it more tamper-proof,, removing rear quarter trim should work ok, sorry to hear it wasn't successful for you...
Someone on the list mentioned an adjustment to correct this problem. Has there been anymore info? My passenger side sometimes doesn't unlock all the way, requiring "lock cycling" to unlock it - hence I think it is the cause for the issue. (Although, when it goes out of adjustment, your notice will be a car with keys locked inside...)
I never leave the key inside unless I leave a window down, and always inform the tire guy, etc. of the situation.
Charles 80S with self-locking feature
>When unlocking the passenger door with the key, the driver's door does not
>Locking/unlocking the driver's door with the key causes the system enter into a cycle of trying to lock/unlock at the driver's door, no action from the >passenger door is exhibited? My understanding is this system is vacuum actuated, so I suspect there is a misconnected HVAC hose. Any thoughts?
>Bad ground? The car is an 87S4, with stock alarm.
Only the locking system on the 1978-79 were vacuum operated and only for the drivers door. The 80 and newer all have basically the same electric locking system.
The locking system uses positioning information from one lock to operate the other lock. If for example one door is open and an attempt is made to lock the doors then the doors lock momentarily and immediately unlock again.
This is accomplished by cross wire from on lock to the other. If the passengers side lock can not lock because it is not getting electricity then the locks will go into the cycling mode you describe.
The first place to start trouble shooting is the fuses on the top of the fuse panel. For some reason Porsche did not include the fuses for the door locks on the panel with the rest of the fuses. It appears the electric door locks like the alarm system were last minute add ons. The fuses are in two plastic fuse holders that are supposed to be attached to the top of the fuse panel. Sometimes they are just hanging or stuffed behind the top of the fuse panel.
It is likely that from your description that the passenger side fuse is blown.
If this fails to fix the problem then the next place is to look at the door wiring. Body shops repainting doors can either mask off the car or they can remove the door. There is a plug for the door wiring harness by the passengers tray. This is the first place to check and the place to start the trace. If the passenger side lock motor is not getting voltage then it will also cause these symptoms. Of course after checking the plug going to the door to dig deeper you will have to remove the door panel.
If there is electricity going to the passenger motor then the next place to look is the adjustment. If the adjustment is off then the sense switches will never sync and the locks will not close. When testing the adjustment the easiest way to work on the door is to close the latch on the door while it is open. This way the door thinks it is closed.
Dan the Pod Guy