1977-1989 Porsche 928 Oil Pan Gasket P/N 928-101-207-00 For Touring, 928, 928S, SK, S4, SE & Club Sport models.
This is a hand made product of modern composite cork and rubber material, 3/32" thickness. I have precision made these for years using razor and punch and now offer them to you. It's far superior to NOS cork. Gasket stays pliable and takes the heat very well. Fits like a glove and seals tight. Changing fluid does not remove the crud that collects in the pan. Extend the life of your drive train with a cleaning. I have other antique pan gaskets on EBay now.
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Thanks for the advice. It appears from everything I have researched out that Hylomar is equivalent to Yamabond with the added advantage of being made, like our cars, in Germany.
So a couple of questions?
Do you still use the cork gasket? I found it was impossible to get the torque Walt suggested of 6 to 8 ft. lbs. without crushing the gasket. Instead, I walked around the gasket until the bolts were tight and did not abnormally crush the gasket.
How much is too much. I put two small beads on the crankcase set the gasket on and then put two small beads on the pan one on either side of the bolt holes. Before I cleaned all of the surfaces and the bolts and bolt holes.
I used blue Loctite on the bolts.
When finished I had some of the Hylomar squeeze out to the side of the gasket. Today it was dry and easily picked off. Is this too much? What problems have you seen from using too much Yamabond?
Dan the Pod Guy
Use Yamabond, Locktite or Wurth crankcase sealer, I forgot the numbers, and spread it on evenly, and very thin on the mating surfaces. This way you control the spread of the material
Beads of silicone have been known to go through the oil pump and get lodged in the heads oil passages.
Yamabond is my choice for sealant.
I've been using Hondabond (same as Yamabond, even looks the
same) for three years now. I used it when I rebuilt my '83 Euro S motor and transmission. Last year I used it when I replaced the rod bearings on my GTS. I
spread a LIGHT coat of it on the appropriate gasket for the part I was working
on and then coated the bolts. If you try and torque the oil pan down (for
instance) right away using Yamabond or Hondabond on the gasket, the material
will act as a lubricant and the gasket may squish out in some places causing a
leak. What I've done with the oil pan and the cork gasket is to carefully clean
the mating surfaces first to remove all grease and oil, lightly coat each side
of the gasket with Hondabond, snug up the bolts just to the point where the
parts and the gasket make solid contact, and allow several hours for the gasket
Then go back and torque the bolts to their specified value. Three years, three Open Road Racing events, and about 5,000 miles later, not a hint of a leak.
Just a picture of the Oil pan (oilpan)
General consensus is NOT to use any bonding or sealant when using a cork gasket!
I'm going to be installing a rubber cork composite pan gasket weekend after this. Got it here: