Subject: non cancelling turn signal
From: Joe Ferguson <go2bora2@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 21:23:40 -0700 (PDT)
X-Message-Number: 2

I am preparing to install a new steering wheel on my car. '83S euro. At this point, the left turn signal does not cancel. In your wisdom and experience, do I need new parts, or is there an adjustment that I can make when installing the new wheel that will eliminate this problem?

Eagerly awaiting your reply.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

'88 S4 A/T (hers)
'83S Euro 5Sp (mine)

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Joe,

The steering wheel has a plastic cancelling tab on the back that fits down inside the turn signal switch and makes the turn signal cancel. It is made of soft plastic and frequently wears so that the symptom you describe happens.

Take a close look at the leading edges of this tab, they both need to have a sharp edge and be at an angle of about 45 deg - with no grooves worn where the cancelling cam hits.

The tab can be replaced (don't know the #) or you can file or sand the tab to have a new sharp edge. It does not matter if you loose 1/8" or so of material.

So if your new wheel has a new plastic tab yo should be OK.

Hope this helps - Paul

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My turn signal does not cancel properly. It used to be intermittent and only on one side, but now it seems to be almost full time for both directions. I keep forgetting about it, and since it is silent, and the steering wheel blocks it from my view, I occasionally find myself driving down the road with the turn signal on like some idiot. I searched through the archives and read some of the past discussions. I think I understand how everything normally functions.

I removed my steering wheel, and investigated. The canceling tab on the backside of the wheel is still pristine (proper shape, size, chamfers, and no scores or wear). Using a small tool, I tried to simulate the canceling action and it appears that something is actually broken or loose within the main mechanism of the assembly. I would like to take it apart, but it doesn't look very serviceable (rivets, etc.).

How big of a job is it to remove so I can play with it on the bench? Has anyone ever opened up one of these assemblies and successfully repaired the mechanism on the inside, or would it be advisable to simply replace it.

Thanks, Mark.
Black 84 S in Atlanta

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Mark,

It's not hard to get out. The steering wheel needs to come off. Pull off the horn pad. A 1 1/16" socket works on the large nut. (Or maybe it's 1 1/8") You'll need to remove a panel across the bottom of the pod (2 screws) and the trim around the steering column. The bolts on the trim are two of four that hold the pod in place. That's OK because you'll need to loosen the other pod bolts to get the mechanism out. The pod does not need to be removed. Be careful though, theres a lot of delicate wiring and connectors back there. The switches are held by a clamp arrangement the uses a single screw.

If everything goes well, about 5 minutes in and out.

Glen Larson
'80 Euro S

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Mark,

I suggest you first order the multiswitch from one of the Big 3 (I got mine from 928 Int'l) so it arrives by the time you have either destroyed your current switch or grown bored of playing with it.

Dan Perez
78 5 speed
928OC