As I mentioned in my last post, I have removed everything from the front of the engine on my '84S.  The primary impetus for the job is to address what looked like a leaking water pump.  I plan to replace the water pump, the timing belt, the crankshaft oil seal, and rebuild the belt tensioner.
Here's what else I have discovered so far:

- CRANKSHAFT BOLT - Came right off with my 1/2" drive, 27mm deep well socket, and an extension pipe.  While I was underneath installing the flywheel locking tool (nose just about against the starter), it dawned on me that one might be able to use the starter to pop it loose with the extension pipe against the floor.  The rotation direction would be correct, but luckily I didn't need to in this case, anyway.

- TIMING BELT (unknown age) looked surprisingly new, with no cracks or frays, or any worn areas at all.  Maybe I should sell it used on eBay! :-)

- BELT TENSIONER - The boot was all brittle, and it cracked into pieces as soon as I began to handle it.  Perhaps the last time the belt was replaced, the tensioner did not receive any attention.  I was surprised to find that it did still have a good bit of oil in the housing.  This, by the way, ran down all over everything as soon as I removed the tensioner from the engine.  Is there a procedure for getting this off without spilling all the oil?

- LOWER GUIDE ROLLER was also in bad shape (caked up with what looked like old carbonized engine oil from past leaks).  Frankly, it didn't look like it was making any contact with the belt either (which is good cause it barely turns).  Maybe I can clean it real well, but I'm assuming I should probably replace this.  What exactly is it's purpose?

- TENSIONER ROLLERS - The two tensioner rollers on the carrier both appeared to be in good shape.  They spun smoothly and freely.  Is it OK to reuse these, or safer to just replace?

- ALL GEARS (Crank, Camshafts, and Oil Pump) The outer flat part of every tooth on every gear has a shiny worn spot just in the center portion.  Just an observation...

- WATER PUMP spins freely but with a subtle grinding sound, and with no perceivable slop in the bearing.  It does have some corrosion and stains that look like they are due to leakage.  Can't really see where the weep hole is located up under the pulley.  Am I OK going with a rebuilt unit, or should I spend the big bucks for a new one?  It has a metal impeller, whereas aren't all the new ones plastic now?

- ENGINE OIL SEALS - There is a substantial amount of caked on grime from past and probably current oil leaks (I've never seen it loose any oil though).  I plan to clean everything thoroughly, before I begin to put everything back together.  Anything I have removed, I can easily clean.  I currently have corks solidly sealing the openings from the dipstick tube, and the oil return tube (years ago I found a giant assortment pack that has often come in handy).  My plan is to make a cover plate using the
water pump as a template to cover and protect that whole section as well.
After that I hope to (probably repeatedly) spray and soak the whole front with engine cleaner to safely loosen and wash everything away.
Then the problem I have is I don't really know where the leak might be, so I want to replace any seal I can get to.  So far this includes the crankshaft seal, oil pump shaft seal, dip stick guide tube, oil return tube gasket, and oil level sender gasket.  Any others I should be aware of?

- OIL PAN GASKET - I will probably just carefully snug all the bolts on this.  I hope to defer replacing the gasket until later, as I also need new engine mounts, and would like to tackle those two together at another time.

- CYLINDER HEAD PLUG - There is some sort of plug (looks like a small freeze plug) on the end of the cylinder head.  The one on the passenger side is bone dry and the whole face is clean as a whistle.  The driver side one looks like it has leaked oil in the past, if not currently.  Is there a procedure for replacing this?

- OIL IN COOLANT - There are some globules of (assumably) engine oil in the coolant and coolant passages, but the engine oil is pristine, with absoliutely no indication of any coolant in it.  Is there some way for this seemingly "one way" contamination to occur (please don't say head gasket)?

- SYNTHETIC OIL - The PO used regular dino oil, but the PO's PO used synthetic.  I went back to synthetic when I got the car, but now I'm wondering if that has magnified the oil leak situation.  I've heard that one type swells seals more than the other, but can't remember which.  Is it safer (from a seal and leak perspective) to use syn after dino, or dino after syn, or does it matter?

Wow!  I'm really sorry, but I had no intention for this post to be so long.

Thanks in advance for any feedback,   Mark.
Black '84 928 S in Atlanta (still in surgery).