I had the O2 sensor replaced in my '82 a couple of months ago.
Immediately afterwards, the car began hesitating from standstill and surging at constant
throttle openings. It was suggested that I have the CO checked which I
finally got round to doing last weekend. The CO and hydrocarbon meters
clearly showed the mixture varying from rich to lean every 3 to 4 seconds.
My mechanic explained that the O2 sensor was bad. Before I mess with
replacing this again, I ran a voltmeter on it and got the following: engine
cold - 0.525v gradually increasing to 0.530v once warmed up. My
understanding was that the O2 sensor simply produces a constant voltage for
a given volume of oxygen. The readout was not oscillating but maybe my
voltmeter was not sensitive enough to see it. Is this OK or not?
Trying to rule out other possibilities, can someone tell me the expected
voltage from the outside temperature sensor at say 80 degrees F?
Last possibility is the Air Flow Meter but I want to rule out the cheaper
alternatives first! :-)
Thanks as always
John McDermott
1982 928 AT
==============
John & Erin McDermott wrote:
> The readout was not oscillating but maybe my voltmeter was not sensitive enough to see it. Is this OK or not?
I use a digital voltmeter to read the O2 sensor and it is pretty easy to
read. The O2 sensor
transitions from "high" which is .5 volts to maybe .9 volts to
"low" which is about .1 to .18
volts at a stoichiometric mixture. It should make this transition pretty
much all the time
with a warm engine driven at a steady speed. The numbers on the voltmeter
should be
constantly changing. If not, something is wrong. I'm not sure which
models are which, but
some generic O2 sensors have wires for heaters in them and some cars don't use
them. It is
up to the installer to pick the right wire. Wrong wire? Just a
guess.
==========
At 11:41 AM 4/4/00 +0000, Eric L. Johnson wrote:
>Help,
>Can anyone give me the pinout for the 3 wire connector at the O2 sensor?
>I think it is as follows:
>green - controller for O2 signal
>blue - reference voltage (12v???)
>brown - ground
Pretty close - the blue is actually the heater for the sensor.
Wally
===============
Marcus,
I've played a lot with my O2 sensor, using a oscilloscope, DVM and an Air
fuel meter.
> >> now I found it, I put an Oscilloscope on it and measured it's
output
while
> >> driving, this is what I discovered:
> >>
> >> Idle: seems ok, steady voltage
It should only be a steady voltage during warm-up, about 60 - 90 seconds.
It should be at ~.5 volts.
After that it should start fluctuating below and above .5 volts.
> >> Boot it: I assumed that booting it would make the fuel
richer, mine
> >> seems to indicate the opposite
> >> it goes real lean.
This could indicate that your mixture is not adjusted correctly.
After the car is warmed up, Shut down the engine, unplug the O2 sensor
with
the A/F meter connected.
Restart the engine, the voltage should be just above .5 volts. Higher if
you want the mixture richer at WOT. I wouldn't try to crank it above .9
volts. The mixture allen screw is on the AMS.
In closed loop mode the O2 sensor will try to keep your mixture around a
half of a volt. At WOT you'll go into open loop mode using the MAP to
program the mixture. If the mixture is adjusted to low, you'll get
lean
conditions.
> >> Puttering along at 40mph, the voltage goes up and down
and sometimes will steady out it seems like the computer is chasing the O2 sensor around (or visa-versa), is this normal ? or am I having problems with fuel/air ratio ?, any suggestions
welcome
That part sounds just like it should. The computer is continually
adjusting
the mixture to the varying conditions.
Ken Postma '86 928S
========
Lambda sonde 3-Polig
Fitis PORSCHE 928 S4 GTS / 5.4
MJ: 86 - 95
Thread: M18 x 1,5
Operating voltage 0-1Volt
Resistance of the heating element 4 Ohm