I am just about to send my Cup 1 wheels for refurbishing (although their structural integrity is OK, they have lots of kerb scratches that make them appear kind of worn and old) to a company specialized in genuine Porsche wheel refurbishing and sales. The problem is that since I can't take the car to their workshop, they will come to pick up the wheels (at an extra cost, of course). In the meantime I plan to leave the car sitting on stands. The eternal problem: Where can I put the jack to safely lift the car so stands can be placed on the jacking points?

I have seen lifting a Mercedes 500 SEC from the rear cross member. Is it a safe place for a 928? What about the front? Can anyone tell me about this? The car should be about 10 days sitting on stands waiting for the refurbished wheels to come back. Any help will be appreciated.


'93 GTS


The 928 can be supported safely in the front on the rear lower control arm support bracket.  It's the one with the ride height tab.  Another forward location is along the seam forward of what appears to be Frame-rails.  The seam is the union of two structural panels and is therefore more rigid.  In both cases, use something between the stand and the car to reduce scratching.

In the rear, the cross member can be used to support the car, but since it is only one point, it is not as stable two.  Your 928 should have a plate behind and inboard of the jack point.  That plate is an excellent place to use a stand.  BTW, the owner's manual shows the proper lifting points. 


~ Merry motoring ~

At 07:07 PM 9/26/00 -0700, Jamie wrote:
>I'm going to take a look at my steering rack tomorrow and was getting a look under the car this evening. Here's the dumb question:   Where's a safe spot to put jack stands without damaging the underside of the car? When you're using the only "authorized" lifting point, where do the stands go?

Not dumb - it just isn't always obvious the first time. Jack the car up at the rear jack point, put a jack stand under the front point. Repeat on the other side, then jack the rear at the transaxle cross member and put jack stands under the rear points. A pain, but better than bending the chassis.



Hey Jim, It must be the season or something. Who would imagine that a simple question about jacking up a car would stir up such a feeding frenzy. Each question will eventually repeat itself, some more than others. The tips list is a handy way to answer these common problems and an excellent way to introduce new members to the site.

The 928 has some strange idiosyncracies and one of them is how to jack it up. I have a high lift floor jack, which I have padded with an old hockey puck. This I use to jack the car from the lift point. I raise it in stages onto jack stands, so as not to over stress the frame. First one side and then the other until I have enough room to slide under.
The jack stands I use are the ratchet variety, these are definitely worth the extra cash. On the front they go under the front lower A-arm's skid plate. (that's the one what leaves sparks on the road when you hit fresh construction at 70 mph :-/)On the rear I like to locate the stands on the inner suspension pivot point. I always leave my hydraulic jack in the up position with just enough tension on the jack point to keep it from moving. You can't get enough safety. Always check to be sure the stands are straight and in good condition. They do not last forever, so
don't be afraid to replace them if they ever get bent or damaged in any way. Never use them on anything that is uneven or unstable.

BTW once you have lifted the car once the jack point leaves a perfect impression of the lift cutout, in the hockey puck. With a little time, effort and a dremel tool this can be easily shaped so you have a custom fit, padded jack plug for your shark.

Have fun.
Dan Taylor
78 928 grandprixweis
(p.s. for those of you in the south, a hockey puck is just a well
insulated beer coaster ;->)


Also, always remember to pull the cross brace off BEFORE lifting, and don't put it back on until the car is back on the ground. This direction comes right out of the WSM, but still many folks don't believe it.

WSM 10-2 ..... " car must stand on its wheels when cross brace is removed or installed".

So for brace off engine bay work, remove brace before lifting, and reinstall after the wheels are back on the ground. I've had 3 of these cars and lifted them many many times, and never had a cracked windshield following the WSM process, or any other problem.

To clarify - this only applies if you are lifting the whole car with the wheels off the ground, and if you are doing work on the engine that requires removal of the brace. You don't have to remove the brace to lift the car, but you also don't want to remove the brace once the car is lifted.