Replacing the motor mounts is one of the more frustrating tasks that I have under taken on the 928. It is a hard, dirty and expensive job - but it did make a very noticeable difference in both of my cars.
Some reasons for frustration:
The nine-volume shop manual doesn't even mention this job, and doesn't have a good illustration of it.
The area is dirty.
You have to take off several unrelated items to replace the mounts.
Fasteners are very tight and very hard to get to.
You have to jack the engine.
The mounts are expensive - $210.60 each for '82 - up.
Support the car securely at a comfortable working height. You will be reaching up into the engine compartment 8", so allow for that. You will need a jack to support the engine - a small bottle jack takes up less room under the car.
Replacing the mounts is easy once the cross-member is out, basically impossible without it being out. Removing the cross-member requires dropping the steering rack and the inner lower control arm mountings. If you plan to replace the front shocks, now is the time.
1) Jack the car.
2) I chose to lower the steering rack rather than removing it. You can leave the hoses connected - don't over-stress them. Remove the steering shaft universal joint. There is one nut on top by the shaft that is a pain to hold. Try sticking a flat-bladed screwdriver beside it to hold it.
3) I chose to remove the lower control arm mounts. This shouldn't screw up your alignment. Removal is pretty obvious. Be careful of the ball joint boots and the brake lines - it is easy to damage them by letting the arms swing.
4) Support the engine - be sure to spread the load with a large wooden piece, so you don't damage the crankcase. Drop the cross-member and mounts.
There are a few other pieces that are in the way, such as ground cables, etc. Remove what you have to.
5) Replace everything, but first: Snug - don't over-tighten - all of the oil pan bolts; Clean and check everything that you touch, such as ground cables, etc.
6) When you get to the steering universal: Pull the plastic plug found on the front of the rack housing just in front of where the shaft goes in.
Look inside the hole, find the dimple in the rack, and center it in the hole. This centers the rack. Install the universal so that the steering wheel is straight with the dimple centered.
I have probably forgotten something - this is the type of thing that you try to blot out of your memory.
> I am about to install my new motor and want to use the Ford Tempo
> There are two different kinds offered - hydraulic (fluid filled) and solid rubber. Which is the best choice? I am tempted to go with the solid mounts??
Dan, you will want to use the Ford "truck" mounts vs the Tempo mounts. P/N- is 2698 for the "hydraulic" and 2698"S" for the "solid".
I personally went with the solid mounts because I had an early failure rate on the stock Porsche mounts, probably due to the extra heat from my MSDS headers. The solids bolted right up, and I have had no ill effects from using them without the "early 928" engine shocks. They "may not" be as smooth as the hydraulic mounts, but they are sure a damn sight smoother than failed factory mounts, and I know I won't have to replace them in a year like the hydraulic mounts. HTH,
> I have a friend who used to work in a Mercedes dealership and he was thinking that the motor mounts for 500 or 560 series Mercedes would work on our 928's. He showed me a couple versions and they definitely look beefy enough plus the cost is 1/3 of what the 928 mounts run.
> Does anyone know the actual dimensions of the 928 mounts so he can compare the two and see if it is a possibility?
> Has anyone already gone down this path? What did you find out?
> Take care, Dan 87 5 speed, black/black
There are several people using Anchor Industries motor mount part number 2696 (or a similar P/N for a 6 cylinder Ford truck). Do a search and you'll find more info.
Just a reminder - the Anchor 2696 mount is a squishier mount with thinner sidewalls. The Anchor 2698 is sturdier and should be more durable for our V-8's. I'm 40,000 miles into mine and they are still very good.
More info on my website.
87 a/t 164k
> My 928's motor mounts need to be replaced, and I'm frankly shocked by the price--what's the consensus on the cheaper, aftermarket motor mounts? My mechanic tells me they're prone to collapse after only a year in service.
> Also, do any vendors sell polyurethane bushings for the steering rack?
> Joe Elliott
> '88 S4
I renewed with Anchor Industries 2698 motor mounts and they have been entirely satisfactory so far, though it's been only three months. I suspect that they will have longevity similar to the costly Porsche units, as the cast-steel Ford engine they were intended to support is in the same weight class as the aluminum 928 engine. They aren't a perfect fit but they require no drilling or other modifications except you need to purchase nuts which will fit the studs.
Just go to your local auto parts store and say you need motor mounts for a 1990 Ford Ranger with the L4 engine. Likely they are in stock. With the $500 you'll save, you can buy a new pot-metal hatch lock and have enough change to fill 'er up with Ethyl.
I just installed the Ford mounts on an 85. I had to drill a single hole on each mounting plate to accommodate the alignment pin. Other that that they bolted right in. I did not use the spacers as suggested because height appeared to be correct without any spacers. The mounts at Napa are about $50 each - Napa the good stuff. You will have to get locking because the threads are not the same pitch as the Porsche nuts.
I suggest drilling the hole for the alignment pin as the Porsche mount uses a squared off lug on the threaded stud for alignment. Without the squared off lug the mount can spin when you go to tighten it. By drilling a hole for the pin on the Ford mount you end up with the same alignment and will be able to keep the mount in place when installing the engine or the cross bar.
I did have a little difficulty when installing the engine onto the new mounts. The mounts sit on the cross member at an angle. The new mounts sit up higher than the old crushed ones. When I attempted to sit the engine down on the mounts I found there was not enough clearance between the top of the two mounts. The angle and height creates a narrower distance between the tops of the mounts than the width of the oil pan. The mount on one side or the other would stick up and catch the oil pan by about an eighth of an inch. In the end, I just sat the engine down on the mounts a little and took a big hammer to pop the mount sideways and clear the oil pan. The engine then sat down perfectly on the mounts. I suspect if you are doing the mount change without pulling the engine the same problem would arise when putting the cross member back in place.
I suspect the same issue would come up with new factory mounts, as they would also ride high. Next time I do the job, I will tie the mounts to the side with a couple of tie strips to give the proper clearance and then just cut the tie strips once the engine is in place.
Once the engine was fully supported on the mounts there remained adequate clearance between the oil pan and the cross member. So far I have not heard of anyone having problems with the Ford mounts. Given the high frequency of failure of the Porsche mounts even on the newer cars I would rather bet on Ford over Porsche. While you are looking at the motor mounts take a close look at the transmission mounts. When the motor mounts get weak the engine rocks and can tear the transmission mounts. The only things supporting the driveline are the motor mounts and the transmission mounts. The place to check the transmission mounts is near the top where the rubber attaches to the metal. They tend to separate at this point.
Hope this helps.
Dan the Pod Guy