At 08:25 AM 4/11/00 +0200, Kurt Rottner wrote:
I am going to replace my steering boots soon. The manuals don't day so much about the work. Is it so easy or is it as complicated as it usually is when it looks so simple ?
1) Securely support the car.
2) Carefully count the threads showing between the tie-rod locking nut and the end of the tie-rod, and write it down.
3) Break the locking nut loose on the tie-rod end, then unscrew the tie-rod and locking nut.
4) Remove the old boot. Clean the ball joint, and carefully check it.
5) Slip the boot on the tie-rod, and leave it loose. Reinstall the locking nut on the tie-rod so that the same number of threads are showing that you recorded in Step 2). Screw the tie-rod into the tie-rod end until the nut just touches.
6) Repeat Steps 2) - 5) on the other side.
7) Unscrew the plastic locking cap located on the front side of the rack housing just in front of where the steering shaft enters the rack housing. Look thru the hole, and locate the small dimple machined into the steering rack. Center it in the hole. This centers the rack in the housing.
8) Look at the wheels - they should be straight ahead. If they are not, turn the tie-rods THE SAME AMOUNT IN THE SAME DIRECTION until the wheels are straight ahead. The total turns of thread showing must be the same before and after straightening the wheels, otherwise you have just changed the toe-in on the car!
9) Tighten the lock nuts securely. Finish installing the boots.
10) Recheck the number of threads showing, think about it, and be sure that you have done this correctly.
11) Check to be sure the dimple is still centered in the hole. Check the position of the steering wheel. It should be straight - if not, remove and reinstall it so it is straight when the dimple is centered in the hole.
12) Reinstall the plastic plug, take a last careful look over everything,
and unjack the car.
Remember that screwing this job up will wear your tires out very quickly at
a minimum, and kill you at a maximum.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
============
has
anyone ever changed their boot for the front right rack and pinion? if
so, what are some things I should look out for when I take the front
suspension out?
Andrew
'84 928s US
==========
At
08:42 PM 11/3/00, you wrote:
has anyone ever changed their boot for the front right rack and pinion? if so, what are some things I should look out for when I take the front
suspension out?
Andrew,
Don't take the suspension out to replace a steering rack boot.
Support the front of the car so that you can work under it SAFELY, and so that the front wheels are hanging free.
Have paper and pencil available. Look at the tie rod end, near the wheel. Mark the exact bottom of the tie rod. At that point, carefully count the number of threads showing outside the locking nut, and write it down. Loosen the clamp on the outer (Small) end of the rubber boot, and push it in enough to expose the retaining ridge on the tie rod. Accurately and carefully measure from the face of the locking nut to the ridge on the tie rod that locates the end of the rubber boot. Write this measurement down - it must be very precise!
Loosen the lock nut at the tie rod end.
Unscrew the tie rod from the tie rod end, and remove the lock nut.
Remove the old rubber boot. Clean the rack and rack housing very carefully. More than a tiny bit of transmission fluid in the boot means that you need a new rack, or will very soon.
Install the new rubber boot, but don't tighten any clamps.
Install the lock nut. Screw the tie rod into the tie rod end.
Using the measurements obtained in Step 2, firmly tighten the lock nut at EXACTLY the same location as it was originally, with the mark on the bottom in the same place that it was originally.
Re-measure to be sure that the measurements are the same.
Install the clamps on the rubber boot.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists